Vivienne Westwood shows another side for SS22

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Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood exudes a different energy from that of the brand’s rebellious chic core.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood exudes a different energy from that of the brand’s rebellious chic core.

Vivienne Westwood conjures up certain adjectives: sophisticated, avant-garde, a little punk and definitely inherently British. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring / Summer 2022 keeps these cornerstones in hand, but in a whole different way.

During Paris Fashion Week, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood presented a collection of deconstructed clothes against intense and epic music. The Westwood husband set up his collection largely in a palette of white, black and shades of pink, accessorized with intricate scarves or large pearl earrings (as is the case with Vivienne Westwood) . The result – a more relaxed side, reigned over the side of Vivienne Westwood, still undeniably loyal to the label, but without the volume, the eclecticism, the dynamic between chic and punk that are at the heart of Westwood’s creations.

What Vivienne Westwood has always excelled at is creating rebellious fashion – mismatched prints, vibrant graphics, vibrant colors – but making them sophisticated, clean, elevated yet fun. And while the label’s clean cuts and precise tailoring core have remained true to the collection, fun prints and bold colors have faded, like the iconic purple and yellow plaid from Fall / Winter 2021.

Instead, heavily draped and tailored pieces centralize around a drastic deconstruction, with oversized cuts contrasting sharply with Westwood’s signature bodice, cutouts where there were pleats, and an overall unfinished look, like if the fabrics – undeniably Vivienne Westwood – had escaped design. unfinished workshop.

Vivienne Westwood’s lofty connotations are pushed back with this collection, lost between giant t-shirts made up of two different prints – a thrift store favorite, when found, not a Vivienne Westwood icon – and blue boots that morph into pants, becoming suspenders. For what is perhaps the first time, a Vivienne Westwood collection is inconsistent and seems incomplete; if you squint, the core of the label is retained but, aside from the selected looks, is buried under kitsch patterns and a sense of error.

The most notable looks in the collection, therefore, are those that show Kronthaler’s hand in her own distinctive right as a designer, while also being something suitable for Vivienne Westwood. An oversized structured ecru blazer with pronounced shoulders is reminiscent of the brand’s British influences, while a lace red dress over a white bodysuit exudes the sexy and sleek side for which Westwood clothing is known. At the other end of the collection, a chic, fitted coat with a tie waist is Westwood grunge for a contemporary audience, and an asymmetrical white corset dress covered in black tulle is the star of the show, a clear continuity of Vivienne Westwood, reinterpreted. in the hands of Andreas Kronthaler.

For spring / summer 2022, Vivienne Westwood is not restructured, just redesigned.

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